The women of the ancient Mediterranean were celebrated for the refinement of their dress and the sophistication of their hairstyles. Fashion in antiquity was both practical and symbolic, expressing status, identity, and cultural ideals of beauty.
The basic garments of the classical woman were the chiton, a linen or woolen tunic, and the himation, draped and worn over it. These simple yet elegant garments, often secured with pins (fibula) or belts, emphasized the flowing lines admired in Greek art. Such attire can be seen reflected in painted pottery, like an Attic red-figure lekythos, and in terracotta statuettes which capture the grace of daily dress.
Hairstyles, meanwhile, became an art form in their own right. Greek women for instance would wear their hair bound in a sakkos, a soft cap that kept hair in place. Additionally adornments such as the stephane, a crescent-shaped diadem, added a touch of status and refinement.
By the Roman period, coiffures became even more elaborate, becoming markers of fashion and imperial influence. For example the Roman marble portrait of Julia Domna presents the Empress with her distinctive “helmet” of thick, undulating curls, a style widely emulated across the empire. Similarly, the Hadrianic portrait bust of a woman shows a careful arrangement of wavy locks, echoing the idealized beauty of Rome’s elite. More restrained yet elegant styles can be seen in the Roman marble head of a woman featuring softly parted hair drawn back over the crown.
From the martial helmet of the Roman bronze Minerva to the soft folds of a himation on terracotta figures, ancient art preserves a wide spectrum of women’s appearances. These portraits and objects reveal a reflection of identity, artistry, and the beauty of the classical woman.
